Some More Questions for Patricia Baldwin Seggebruch
A question from Trish (New Mexico)
I bought the beeswax and damar crystals to make my own medium. I’ve seen it done two ways: melt beeswax then add damar crystals and melt that at a higher temperature. Another artist melts the beeswax in a stock pot, and melts the damar crystals at a higher temperature in a separate pot, and then mixes both together. Since the beeswax is not supposed to be overheated, the latter makes more sense to me. So why is the first method usually the one recommended?
Hi Trish! I’ve never actually seen the first directions myself, so I can not answer you on that level. But, I always melt my damar in a large electric skillet at a higher temperature, then pour in the beeswax and turn the heat down. I like to melt 2 1/2 lbs beeswax to 1/4 lb damar, but there are many variations of ratio out there! Play with what works best for you-keeping in mind that too much damar will make the final painting/mix more brittle. I’ll be in Santa Fe teaching in 2010! Check my blog for dates if you are in the area:) www.gingerfetish.blogspot.com
A question from Karen (Massachusetts)
After how many layers of wax do you fuse? Or, do you fuse after every layer?
Karen,
I perscribe fusing at each layer and this is the best procedure to ensure maximum durability. When I am working on a piece over an extended period of time and the wax surface has become quite warm from all the work time, I fuse less often-maybe every third layer-believing that the extra warm surface I have created in the concentrated work time is helping in the fusing! 
Good luck and just keep playing in it to find what makes sense to you.
A comment from Sue (Texas)
I just want to read your answers to others questions. Thanks, Sue
Hi Sue-glad to have you! Check out RFpaints.com for forum posts too-great questions being answered there by all kinds of artists
I’ll be in the Dallas area then San Antonio at the end of January and the beginning of February respectively! Look for me and maybe take a workshop?!
A Recent Q/A with Artist Cheng-Khee Chee
Inquiry:I am still looking for the 2 1/2 inch and 3 inch brushes that you use. Also the brands of the paints. My paper, 400lb Fabarino did not stay wet. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Reponse: The 2 1/2″ and 3″ squirrel hair brushes I mentioned in the DVD were “Soft N’ Mighty Varnish”. I believe I got them from ASW Art Supply Warehouse at one time. They discontinued carrying them apparently because of low demands. Actually the soft Chinese or Japanese hake brushes will work just fine. They are much cheaper, and you can get sizes from 2″ to 8″. I use them as well. The best squirrel hair, in my opinion, is still the Isabey brand. They do not have anything larger than 2″.
Mostly I use Winsor and Newton watercolors. I supplement with others such as Daniel Smith’s quinacridone violet and magenta, Holbein’s cobalt green and opera, and Cheap Joe’s sky blue.
Hope you had a wonderful summer and are ready for the splendor of fall.
Best regards,
Cheng-Khee
Cheng-Khee Chee is a master of painting and design. He has been on a life-long quest to understand the natural tendencies of watercolor media, acquire an intimate knowledge of each subject and apply the technique that best expresses each subject, effortlessly.
Reminder!
If you pre-ordered Patricia Seggelbruch’s “Encaustic Collage Workshop,” you still get to ask a question! Watch your new dvd and then follow the link in the email that Susan sent you and submit a question to the artist. We (and she) want to hear from you!
First Q/A for Patricia Baldwin Seggebruch
Question 1 from Mary
I want to do more abstract work and am particularly interested in seeing your shellac burn method. Have you tried shellac burn of a piece that has several layers of rice paper incorporated in the wax? If so, will you please describe the technique?
Thanks for your question Mary!
The shellac burn technique is one of the most popular because of its organic feel and the fun of burning and watching results unfold right before your eyes! It can be caustic, as we are creating fumes in the burn of wax and shellac, so take precautions when doing this technique. Do it in the open air, away from flammable materials, and if you are very sensitive, wear a vapor mask.
I have tried this technique over rice paper; also over decorative papers, photo transfers, Japanese silk tissue paper and sumi paper! As long as you apply the shellac over wax, with the papers embedded underneath wax, you will get the desired effects. I suggest a few layers of wax between the papers and shellac, but one may be enough if you are ready to blow out any papers that may ignite if the wax melts away too quickly and exposes them to flame. The technique is demonstrated in my book, on the DVD and I do it at many demonstration-the next of which is in Seattle at Daniel Smith Art Supply ( -look for their ‘free demonstration’ heading) Hope this gets you where you want to go with the technique and happy burning!
ps: I’d love to see your HM painting~If you have work online or digitally, send me a link so I might indulge in other’s encaustic play!
Ask a Question; “Encaustic Collage Workshop” Pre-Order Special
Patricia Baldwin Seggebruch’s fast, fun, and inexpensive methods break down the barriers to working in encaustic. In this DVD workshop Patricia leads you through three encaustic collage projects using dozens of creative methods and materials. You’ll start with low-cost supplies from stores you visit every week and incorporate techniques from collage, scrapbooking, painting, and other media that make you feel at home.
Take advantage of the Pre-Order special and get the chance to ask Patricia a question!
1. After an on-line Pre-Order is placed, you will receive a questionnaire form via email.
2. You can fill it out with your question for Patricia and send it back.
3. The artist will then select questions from the group to answer.
4. Over the next several weeks, answers will be publicly available on the newly revamped ccpvideos blog and made available to everyone!
Tips for Cleaning Dirty or Damaged CDs or DVDs
We have “defective” discs returned more often than you would believe that are scratched and dirty due to mishandling. Here are some suggestions we found for care of your DVDs.
1. Handle discs carefully by the edges only.
2. Inspect the surface of the disc for damage or contamination, to see if it needs to be cleaned. Canned compressed air is excellent for removing dust.
3. If needed, rinse carefully in clean, warm water to remove any grit that could cause scratches when the disc is wiped.
4. If any debris or film remains that needs to be removed, clean gently with warm water and a mild detergent (e.g., dish-washing detergent), eyeglass cleaning solution, isopropyl alcohol or a commercially available CD/DVD cleaning solution.
5. Gently wipe dry with a lint-free, soft cotton cloth. Use a wiping motion moving from the center of the disc to the outside edge instead of wiping around the disc. If wiping does cause any scratch, an “inside to outside” scratch will cut across the data tracks around the disc instead of running along them and damaging additional data.
6. If any residue or film remains, wipe with alcohol and a soft cleaning wipe.
7. Remember to clean the case, too.
8. If a disc is still damp, store upright (on edge) to allow to air dry.
9. Insert thoroughly dry disc in appropriate disc drive to attempt to read data. If the disc isn’t readable, try a different disc drive. Different drives have different optical qualities with varying thresholds of error correction ability.
10. Data on the majority of discs is likely to be readable after following these steps. For those discs that still cannot be read, contact Susan at susan@ccpvideos.com.
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